onsdag 25 maj 2016

Vargblocken new problems !





Late night session mainly brushing and trying two new lines and the roof project. Went back today and did send two new problems. Smeg and Thrill is the name of two the new problems. Had an epic try session on the roof and managed to climb it in two sektions... good and with unusual moves this one screams classic ;) decided on the name Four inch pinch for the project, next time there are no excuses...

söndag 22 maj 2016

Evening session !



Nice evening session to round of an amazing weekend, trying some undone stuff at Vargblocken. 

lördag 21 maj 2016

King of the rodeo Fa


 Early take of today to get conditions on the project. The boulder was completely dry even after the rain. A slight wind trough the cave made for kind of good konditions. After some beat corrections the send was done and the areas down south have one more nice hard problem. Decided to name the problem King of the rodeo :) 

torsdag 19 maj 2016

Alex Megos repeating and doing Fa

Alex Megos and Daniela Ebler visited for two more days of climbing in Västervik and made impressive repetitions of area classics. This time Alex made two High end Fa by doing the extension to Russian roulette 8A+ and Game of shadow 8B two new problems on Marstrand. It´s truly inspiring and i´m really happy that he chose to make some marks in the area. Hopefully he will be back soon since i did not have time to go out that much these days due to work schedule... 

lördag 14 maj 2016

Dressed for revolution Fa

Project
Dressed for revolution 

A bit colder today and had time to try the project from yesterday. On my best attempt i feel on the last hard move having done the tricky mid part. This problem will be two problems one straight pull on start and one Sds from the right. Due to skin issue i gave up and we packed up, ones in the car i decided to go and check one other hill really close and this was good since i did find a new pile of blocks. The stay where prolonged another 3 hours and i could finish an cool addiction to the roof we did find. The new problem did get the name Dressed for revolution, a crimpy technical 5 mover up a steep wall :) The new south is delivering... 

fredag 13 maj 2016

Yes !




Today i went out for a bit of walking around the boulder with Fade to Black. There is a huge amount of boulders in the area and i brushed and tried a bit on a really cool project. At this location is another three big boulders and it is in walking distance from The big road... 

tisdag 10 maj 2016