tisdag 16 september 2014

Tallsjö !

 Two new boulders at Tallsjö this evening, or one with two variations. Viojgr 7A och Jimmie 8A båda finns på 27crags under Tallsjö

onsdag 10 september 2014

German sektor Marstrand !

Projekt !

I will call this... The area still delivers, one of the better projekts i have seen. The sektor soon up on 27crags.com

måndag 8 september 2014

More Tallsjö !

Hell is lower

Years back i climbed Hell of a lover 7C+ at tallsjö, the problem has one of this weird starts where it starts a bit elevated from a stone. I always though this is a bit of shit and had the vision to climb the line from a pure sitt start. This weekend i worked out the first move and it goes :) also it changes the way u climb the mid part of the problem. So from being a no star problem this will be a five star with real technical movement and a pure start. The grade will also elevate a bit maybe 8A/+. The wether during the weekend where varm and the problem are in the sun so real attempts will have to wait. A new projekt is born trough the ashes of an old problem...  And this one is god ;)

tisdag 2 september 2014

One hour visit !


Homers refrigerator an classic example where i would give the line 7B for the climbing and 8A for the landing. The climbing felt like Heat classic 7B at fruberget Västervik and the landing is like, don't go here without 2 spotters and a lot of foam unless u are interested in killing your self... 

lördag 30 augusti 2014

Love boat captain FA Tallsjö


Today i climbed one new hard problem at Tallsjö. I have tried this one on and of but it took until today to manage the first move, a long jump of real nasty crimps. The problem is an established stand start, and is kinda high. Powerful beautiful and a five star line in my opinion... Happy... Progression is some times so obvious and training pays of :)

tisdag 26 augusti 2014

Tallsjö and 2 new boulders today !

 Q view


Today i put up two new problems on a new block at Tallsjö. The quality of the stone is amazing. Both problems start at the same point and one goes straight up and one take of right. 4 new boulders this week is good, Tallsjö has a lot of undone problems and with Fagerdalen 5 minutes away this will be the biggest area in Västervik. The new problems are at block T10 on 27crags :)