fredag 19 december 2014

Scorecard blocket Vo stenarna !

A not dry day trying to solve moves on a lower start to this problem. Scorecard was done 10-12 years back and there has always been possible to start a bit lower on it. Today it was not dry enough to make it to the top...

fredag 5 december 2014

Old projekts at Vo !

Last week i had the luck to get some dry weather together with time of from work. Spending the day at Vo stenarna and trying to solv the moves on an unclimbed line close to Dillerium. The climb is a a seven mover on compact red Granit and I'm really confused why this one haven't been tried :)

tisdag 2 december 2014

New problem at Vo today !

Today i did an Fa at Vo stenarna ! Pink trail 7C. The sektor will be up on 27crags as soon as i can login, this is an old part of the area and have some really nice problems.

söndag 23 november 2014

Paranoia 8A/8A+

More than 10 years ago i climbed this problem and today i did it one more time. The line is an variation to Dilerum Vo stenarna and in my opinion much better than the main line of the boulder. This problem dries fast and are close to town. Its been raining like crazy for a month now so i was happy to get out and squeeze some real stone :)

torsdag 30 oktober 2014

Golden path 8A+ FA !

Crisp autumn morning gave birth to Golden path 8A+, a problem that are not so classic for the area of Västervik. The start have some cool muscular movement and its not until the top of the boulder the hard begins. Coming from the bottom the slopers in the top are not good and the movement are weird. Happy with this one. grade wise i would say much harder than delirium 8A. I will go with 8A+ and se what repeters think. The sit start is a game of its own with four more hard moves to the boulder, hoping to get more days like this... 

måndag 27 oktober 2014

Oreo 8A FA at vargklippan !

Oreo 8A Sds
Today i had a nice day at Vargklippan, My intetions where to try Golden path Sds projekt and i did. The line climbs from a sittstart and enters a bulge of slopers. Two of the moves are hard and stabby. despite having some good tries the move in the middle remain undone. Speculating on a grade on this would be like 8B/+ and it feels like the hardest i have in the region. Afterwards i tried another good line on the bulge and Oreo 8A Sds was born. Västervik now have one more high quality problem to the list of to does ;)