måndag 25 april 2016

Inspiration and motivation !

 Alex Megos The Hourglass
 One more from The Classic Hourglass 
 Lorentz Ulmer on Arcoxia
 Alex Megos
 The Office Sds
 Go all day Vo-stenarna
 Namaste Vo
Daniella Ebler at Varklyftan Solstadström

Blessed with a lot of motivated persons arriving and climbing in the area of Västervik. had an amazing weekend with Alex Megos and Daniella Ebler and Lorentz Ulmer and 
Amalie Ekensteen Johncke. There where a lot of climbing done. To climb and tag along showing the areas is a huge inspiration and motivation to continue searching and sharing the problems i do in the region of Västervik. Alex is like a machine and have such a drive/motivation that i could live on it for a lifetime. This makes me highly motivated for future development and a huge inspiration to Train even harder. During the spring i have found a new area with a lot of new blocks and walls and there are some really cool projects that we didn't have time to visit, this will have to bee the next time ;) 

onsdag 20 april 2016

New Areas !

Today it was time to sample some new stuff in the newly discovered area south of Västervik. Started to try a new hard project and Jim brushed and cleaned a new one next to it. Most of the day we where sampling new walls and blocks, this area will be big and have a lot of climbing in a near distance...

tisdag 12 april 2016

Odium stand FA

Last weeks it have been a lot of people climbing in the area. have had the pleasure to meet and climb with some beasts more on that in another article. Today i was on for trying to find the final solution for a really nice project, last time i figured out the transition move witch is really powerful. Today i cleaned the top and could do the FA of the stand start of one more super nice climb... I decided on the name Odium :) The sit start will be a powerful climb and in my opinion Hardish... 

söndag 3 april 2016

Nice weekend !



Today i climbed two great problems. Both where flash ascents. A Quick hit at Björnfallet and Eskiltuna moves and a Quick stop at Save the game... Both problems are really good. I saved Harazzed for the next trip up, time was not on my side with the kids being trashed from a weekend with cousins and the talus field at the problem is no playground for a 1,5 year old lady like Lilja.

lördag 2 april 2016

Hercules and my vision !


Hercules is an really nice problem i found some time ago. Today was my second day trying to solve the tricky middle part on the problem. And truly i have not climbed anything like it this one is amazing and probably vill be one of the nicest gems i have done... the rock is perfect and the approach is nothing.  I did do the problem from a pull on start right hand in big side pull and left on spike feature... it would have been nice to get some info on how the first ascent where done the start did not work at al since it was really daby. And i removed the big tree just to be abel to do it from the position i did today. During my ascent one fot hold and one hand hold broke a bit hopefully this docent change anything. Interesting to se how the first ascent where done... my solution to the problem will be in the movie i am putting together... Sick problem and congrats to the one who put it up :) this is by far one of the best problem i have climbed 5 Stars if possible. Kallakårar Sds went down flash maybe I'm climbing strongly at the moment...As i did the problem it seems to bee an mix of two problems Starting in hercules and ending with kallakårar doing a matching 4 move in 50cm :) if it will be considered a problem in the future it will be Hercules variant ;)

onsdag 30 mars 2016

Secrets !




Today skin had grown back a bit so i went out trying an old project. A new problem was born, high quality hard and dynamic. The problem is on granit with smoothness of sandstone, steep and powerful, a true gem for the next generation. This small area are host of two other old quality hardlines and an project. I decided on the name Shapeshifter 8A anyone who is keen on trying can contact me. In the future i will stay away from www.8A.nu and 27crags.com places like this only create shit for me. Friends know where to find me....