Some brushing and trying on new problems at vargblocken, did find a new wall located close to Fade to black. 4 new lines where brushed today and we will be back at it tomorrow...
lördag 28 maj 2016
3 New problems today Four inch pinch and Beauty and the beast and Beauty and the beast sans. The roof now have 4 variations. Conditions where a bit better today and i sussed out the last tricks for the sends. as if i was surprised i stumbled upon a new wall with good quality lines and super nice stone located nearby :)
onsdag 25 maj 2016
Late night session mainly brushing and trying two new lines and the roof project. Went back today and did send two new problems. Smeg and Thrill is the name of two the new problems. Had an epic try session on the roof and managed to climb it in two sektions... good and with unusual moves this one screams classic ;) decided on the name Four inch pinch for the project, next time there are no excuses...
söndag 22 maj 2016
lördag 21 maj 2016
Early take of today to get conditions on the project. The boulder was completely dry even after the rain. A slight wind trough the cave made for kind of good konditions. After some beat corrections the send was done and the areas down south have one more nice hard problem. Decided to name the problem King of the rodeo :)
torsdag 19 maj 2016
Alex Megos and Daniela Ebler visited for two more days of climbing in Västervik and made impressive repetitions of area classics. This time Alex made two High end Fa by doing the extension to Russian roulette 8A+ and Game of shadow 8B two new problems on Marstrand. It´s truly inspiring and i´m really happy that he chose to make some marks in the area. Hopefully he will be back soon since i did not have time to go out that much these days due to work schedule...
lördag 14 maj 2016
Dressed for revolution
A bit colder today and had time to try the project from yesterday. On my best attempt i feel on the last hard move having done the tricky mid part. This problem will be two problems one straight pull on start and one Sds from the right. Due to skin issue i gave up and we packed up, ones in the car i decided to go and check one other hill really close and this was good since i did find a new pile of blocks. The stay where prolonged another 3 hours and i could finish an cool addiction to the roof we did find. The new problem did get the name Dressed for revolution, a crimpy technical 5 mover up a steep wall :) The new south is delivering...
fredag 13 maj 2016
Today i went out for a bit of walking around the boulder with Fade to Black. There is a huge amount of boulders in the area and i brushed and tried a bit on a really cool project. At this location is another three big boulders and it is in walking distance from The big road...
tisdag 10 maj 2016
söndag 1 maj 2016
Today i did go to the new boulder and climbed the stand start to Sun king. The Sds is an really cool project and it is hard steep and gymnastic. Splendid rock quality on this boulder and one hard project and one futuristic line to the right of it :) Did found some new stuff on my way back and i keep finding new gems, Västervik south will be big ;)