Some days ago i did the remarkable finding of this really special problem or boulder. During one sleepless night i searched google maps in an area close to the coast where i live. The boulder looked promising and was in a place i had searched before. The boulder is located in an forest of oak trees and is close to the sea witch make for a beautiful venue, No 1 was ✔ the boulder had one promising line and if this one is possible No 2 was ✔ the problem is hardish No 3 ✔ the boulder is big and have one line and the line is tal and proud... the moves are hard and technical... This is what i have been searching for for a long time :)
söndag 27 november 2016
An Heriksnäs day, Muchacho in the bag and it´s a nice new addiction to Västervik. The area got some more exploring and i did eventually reach the spot i located on google maps. This spot was the reason for finding the caves and al the other stuff I've been babbling about. This area of half island have good potential and hopefully i have time for one more visit tmrw :) The new find spot is a big block 5 min walk from the cave and around it is walls and more boulders...
torsdag 24 november 2016
Weeks of living in aquarium finally came to an end, used the time wisely and did find a new big Quality area. Henriksnäs is an half island and is close to Slingsö and Vargblocken. The area is the biggest with a lot of caves and blocks and the quality is splendid. Today i did get a short session out there and used the time to find out the moves on one hardish roof climb... The forecast for the weekend are looking prime and i´m free :)
onsdag 16 november 2016
onsdag 19 oktober 2016
Over the boarder execution to Knutstorp
Lorentz trying out Whalefish
One more project in the works...
To sum up the last 80 days ain´t easy, Lorentz came smoking hot from a tripp to Rocklands. And was super psyched. The weather in the beginning was more then ideal, But spirit was high. During the visit we have been working on a new guidebook for the area and Lorentz is i charge of that project. The task is to get a new one out Maj 2017. There have been somewhere like 50 new boulder put up during this time and especially Vargblocken and Slingsö have grown in to be a really good area of it´s own. A lot of changes have been made. It´s super nice to have some one to throw the ball at and get konstruktive feedback... This is one of the super annoying things about being alone in the development of an area. And i have taken another path when i put up new problems letting other try and have their opinion on the grading matter. It´s super funny and the chances of getting it right is bigger.
Time flies by and today Lorentz made the tripp home and for new adventures, leaving Västervik in soggy conditions. I´m sure time will fly and he is soon back for more, we have really been finding a lot of new stuff and only two days before the leav we did find some new good problems.
This have been an really nice autumn and a super funny one, hanging out with this energy pack is draining, not only because of climbing hard. Good laughs can be really tiering and we have had one or two :) ...Autumn in vastervik 2016 from stefan rasmussen on Vimeo.
onsdag 12 oktober 2016
Yesterday Lorentz brushed and put up Two nice problems at a new found boulder close to Roffanssvampställe. Had the pleasure to get one in the bag today "91`til infinity". Had an really good flash burn sliding of in the end and managed an wobble ascent on my second go :) climbs super well and having seen a movie really helped out. At the same roof starting from the left is a cool line, actually one of the best I've climbed this summer/autumn. This one did not give up easy and its tricky and powerful at the same time... The problem name is Elementary :)
onsdag 5 oktober 2016
Way of the Wolf Slingsö Fa
Kilian climbing an super nice Fa at Slingsö
Today the pack went to Slings, Kilian did find a new really nice problem there yesterday. After a few tries Kilian finished the problem that on the wright up don't have a name. The Karma like problem probably weights in at 8A but lets wait and se what name and grade Kilian suggests. Later on i made yet another Fa of the problem to the right of this one. This one is weird and tolls like Knee pads where used on the Fa. Tricky powerful movement on big pinches starting in a roof with some kind of high top out :) i decided on the name Way of the Wolf and repeaters can tell witch grade it should have ;) or i might drop one for the new guidebook ;)
söndag 2 oktober 2016
fredag 30 september 2016
Finally got nice conditions and some time to get out :) Kilian Fischuber and Anna Stöhr on tour in the area makes for good motivation and inspiration. Kilian climbed Frost and now the spell is broken times two on this one, my metod might be morpho but...;) Later they got the tour on some of the new stuff at Vargblocken and around Blankaholm trying some projects and repeating problems like Sin king and Fade to black...
tisdag 27 september 2016
Today Lorentz climbed Frost at tuna blocket, also i got the opportunity to try a bit more on Superfrost. At tuna you really need to be early since the sun are in at around 15. later on i showed Lorentz Tallsjö and love boat captain a dyno/dyno problem of high quality. this area is really accessible and close to tuna.
måndag 26 september 2016
Jake on Kashmir
Vertigo gamla vo
Lorentz on Rebel to the grave
This week have been packed with work, still managed an session at Kasmirsborg and a evening session on Gamla vo. Both locations are not the most visited... On my list these are high, Gamla vo have some good ones.
tisdag 6 september 2016
Alex Megos and Daniela Ebler are on a visit to Västervik and got the tour on the south part witch was explored and developed last autumn and this spring/summer. Alex repeated al the worth does in short time and Daniela where put with an wire brush doing some new ones, actually there where four new ones done at the fade to black sector... Great inspiration !!!! :) we will se what happens tomorrow, i left before Alex where done, trying hard on At war with reality Slingsö as always looking freak strong and unstoppable... hopefully they will like the resort at Tovehult where Lena and Peter will take care of them. This place is astonishing and beautiful and a place real close to the climbing south of Västervik. Have a look at www.tovehult.se and make sure to book upp there in the future thats my recommendation.
måndag 5 september 2016
Did the Ice age project at löta, Not from the Sds but from a pull on start witch actually is the most clear way of starting. Grab rail with left and sloper side pull for right hand. The Sds will ad one move but its long and hard... and this remains a project even if it was close today.
söndag 28 augusti 2016
Today Lorentz did an climb Birdman at Marstrand. I personally think this is one of the most estetik looking problems in Västervik and an contender for the best :) Later the Dyno project went down at Marstrand. This one is a super nice looking problem and it climbs really well... Have to wait for a name... ;)
fredag 26 augusti 2016
The week have been packed with climbing and some new stuff where done, The heat is on and the really hard stuff have to wait. Did have an ok session on the Ice age project together with Lorentz and i think we have wired al moves... Need weather NOW...
tisdag 23 augusti 2016
Yesterday i showed Lorentz a problem i put up last autumn. The problem is Je t`aime paris and is one of those high class problems and it´s actually really close to another well visited area north of Västervik. At the moment it´s rather fun just to sample done problem and to get some thoughts and feelings before the produktion of the new guide book of the area... This one will be huge...
onsdag 17 augusti 2016
Today another great problem when down ! Goodrich at the car boulder Vargblocken is super on good quality rock close to a road. The sector holds a lot of blocks and we are just scraping the surface of whats there. One of the nice things is that this sector will have some really nice moderats :) Loretz is making the most of his time here putting in hours of searching and brushing. The new guidebook is taking shape and this far the layout and sketches/photos look dope...
lördag 13 augusti 2016
Yesterday Lorentz Ulmer made Two new problems on a wall close to Dragon roof at Vargblocken. Actually Lorentz did find two new quality spots in the area. The wall with the new problems has amazing quality on the stone and board style climbing on incuts and slopey crimpers or slimpers. today i managed repetitions and on my behalf I'm not agreeing with Lorentz (Soft) comment in hes scorecard ;) Problem names are on 27crags.com...
torsdag 11 augusti 2016
tisdag 9 augusti 2016
Today prime conditions did get us up King of the rodeo Sds. Both Lorentz and had been close on our last visit and today we managed an team send. Superb and rather unusual climbing on this one... Movie to come... Västervik south is growing fast and in this sector we have 4 more undone projects :)