söndag 22 november 2015
Brushed a new problem today and was lucky to make the Fa of Vivi 7B. In the afternoon i brushed another one slightly harder at a nearby block. Super nice with a fresh new spot. The area is packed with boulders and walls, potential for a lot of problems... The forest was freezing, and it´s really beautiful this time of the year :)
torsdag 19 november 2015
söndag 15 november 2015
lördag 14 november 2015
torsdag 12 november 2015
onsdag 4 november 2015
Today conditions where a bit better, early at the project. Had an epic bad fall on my first burn slipping out of the top hold, one of those bad ones that could be seriously bad... After this i had to rethink and get my head together. Made for some bad tries and finally managed to stand on top of this cool problem. Russian roulette 8A a new super nice problem in the area of Västervik. There is an nice add on to this one and i think this will be 8B, on the other hand thats good for people who think this one is to soft ;) Moves are done so what are you waiting for...
In afternoon i had the pleasure of showing Pavel,Natalia and Vlad Vargklippan and i think they like it a lot :)
Had a blast flashing the new put up problem from Simon Andersson (in sneakers)... By the way its a shit addiction and its OVERRATED, Font 5 at max ;) Watching there cave paintings is a not so nice story. I would love to here an explanation and we can take that when we meet :)
tisdag 3 november 2015
Climbed a new problem at Big roof Marstrand, Grammofon 7A. Had a look at the project one more time and i have an beta for the top. i Gave it some burns and on one i was at the last move slipping off... Hopefully some wind or drier weather tomorrow. would be super fun to finish the main line since there is an even harder traversing start that ads 4 move to the straight out... And i would love to start working that one ;)
måndag 2 november 2015
Saturday was another Marstrand day, beginning to think of this place at the major place of Västervik. The finds the day before made us really happy and we are eager to go back. Meet some http://climbingpics.blogspot.com crew in the area and it´s always a pleasure meting positive spirited and psyched climbers. I was totally trash and had to aim for some of the moderates. Did climb some of Fredrik Dahls first ascents withs in my opinion are superb. Due to lack of number on these climbs they seldom get any attention... My humble opinion is that there some of the best in the mid grade of the area but bring pads since the landing is bad and the problems are high.
Super nice to get to climb more with the crew from Russia. It gets soft in the forest with al the playing with kids. And it´s super nice for my kids to meet up with other people that also try to make as much as possible with there climbing still having family with them.
Pavel Isaev made a strong send of Pro 2 8A, the old and broken Prophesy. It´s weird how people think this one should have the same grade as Animal act 8A+. some years back the lower part of the problem became harder since a big matching flake broke of. The problem got new FA and the names changed... From 7C and 8A... you see the difference... and there is. no one complain before about the ratings but some howe the maths changed or did anything happen with the attitude of repeters ?
Numbers/people are really confusing some times... ;)