Another nice day today. Brushed and tried two new great lines at Korslöt Köping. A small bush walk and i did find 3 more big blocks. There is a really nice and high line on one of them. These area can get big and i keep finding new stuff on my tripps here... :)
onsdag 23 december 2015
This problem is really nice ! The crux crimp broke on an early send try, making the hold a bit smaller. don't know if it affects the grade since over al this is an resistans problem, its more about the flow and go... managed a send today one day from christmas the weather is super weird :)
torsdag 10 december 2015
New area in Vastervik ! from stefan rasmussen on Vimeo.
Weather is ok between showers and storm. Only problem is humidity at the moment. Today i did a new problem at Häggebo, Side show 7C is a tricky little problem with great sloper moves and an high heal. Later i gave Odium some more tries, but this problem will require condition and a fresh body. Hard awkward and full body power will be needed to get this one in the bag 8B seams like an fair grade on it... more on that when its done...
tisdag 8 december 2015
tisdag 1 december 2015
Have had the pleasure of finding a new spot at an ond area Häggebo. This area have some good problems and is close to Blankaholm. Tried a bit on a roof boulder and an aret on the same block, both feel futuristic and hard. Had no serious burns since the weather have been a bit on the wet side lately. The quality of the rock is amazing and i don really know if its granit. al i can say it´s the best i have seen in this region and on every other spot i have visited... had a walk around and did find 5 other interesting blocks with a lot of cool lines on them... HAPPY !!! ;)
onsdag 25 november 2015
söndag 22 november 2015
Brushed a new problem today and was lucky to make the Fa of Vivi 7B. In the afternoon i brushed another one slightly harder at a nearby block. Super nice with a fresh new spot. The area is packed with boulders and walls, potential for a lot of problems... The forest was freezing, and it´s really beautiful this time of the year :)
torsdag 19 november 2015
söndag 15 november 2015
lördag 14 november 2015
torsdag 12 november 2015
onsdag 4 november 2015
Today conditions where a bit better, early at the project. Had an epic bad fall on my first burn slipping out of the top hold, one of those bad ones that could be seriously bad... After this i had to rethink and get my head together. Made for some bad tries and finally managed to stand on top of this cool problem. Russian roulette 8A a new super nice problem in the area of Västervik. There is an nice add on to this one and i think this will be 8B, on the other hand thats good for people who think this one is to soft ;) Moves are done so what are you waiting for...
In afternoon i had the pleasure of showing Pavel,Natalia and Vlad Vargklippan and i think they like it a lot :)
Had a blast flashing the new put up problem from Simon Andersson (in sneakers)... By the way its a shit addiction and its OVERRATED, Font 5 at max ;) Watching there cave paintings is a not so nice story. I would love to here an explanation and we can take that when we meet :)
tisdag 3 november 2015
Climbed a new problem at Big roof Marstrand, Grammofon 7A. Had a look at the project one more time and i have an beta for the top. i Gave it some burns and on one i was at the last move slipping off... Hopefully some wind or drier weather tomorrow. would be super fun to finish the main line since there is an even harder traversing start that ads 4 move to the straight out... And i would love to start working that one ;)
måndag 2 november 2015
Saturday was another Marstrand day, beginning to think of this place at the major place of Västervik. The finds the day before made us really happy and we are eager to go back. Meet some http://climbingpics.blogspot.com crew in the area and it´s always a pleasure meting positive spirited and psyched climbers. I was totally trash and had to aim for some of the moderates. Did climb some of Fredrik Dahls first ascents withs in my opinion are superb. Due to lack of number on these climbs they seldom get any attention... My humble opinion is that there some of the best in the mid grade of the area but bring pads since the landing is bad and the problems are high.
Super nice to get to climb more with the crew from Russia. It gets soft in the forest with al the playing with kids. And it´s super nice for my kids to meet up with other people that also try to make as much as possible with there climbing still having family with them.
Pavel Isaev made a strong send of Pro 2 8A, the old and broken Prophesy. It´s weird how people think this one should have the same grade as Animal act 8A+. some years back the lower part of the problem became harder since a big matching flake broke of. The problem got new FA and the names changed... From 7C and 8A... you see the difference... and there is. no one complain before about the ratings but some howe the maths changed or did anything happen with the attitude of repeters ?
Numbers/people are really confusing some times... ;)
lördag 31 oktober 2015
Good day trying and putting up new stuff at the Big roof Marstrand. This place hold a variety of walls with different angels and structures. Put up Safe 7B and Fredrik Dahl and Vlad Vorobyev made quickies on this one. Anders put up a new 5A boulder to the left of this one. All of us had burns on the roof center line... this will be a nice one... fun day in the forest showing old and new friends some newish Västervik stuff... looking forward for more playing days in the woods with Pavel Vlad and Natalia with kids :)
torsdag 29 oktober 2015
One of the better in my 25 years of climbing, Birdman 8A/B at Marstrand. It is one of those heartbreakers and for me it was a real battle. Had big trouble sticking the second move on this one, i even gave up on it a couple of times. Regarding grade i sincerely don't know and to trow down number on it only feels lame since this battle was about something else... hopefully some one else can be more precise on that ;)... Later in the afternoon i find a really nice roof climb and some new walls so the weekend is saved.
onsdag 28 oktober 2015
tisdag 27 oktober 2015
Mynta and i had an amazing autumn day and headed to Händelöp. Warming up in the sea side looking for dolphins. The pack of dolphins had been seen here the day before so there where hope in geting a glimse. This didn't happen but the location was good for warming up... had one more to do at Vargklippan, Doom Dridgewoods low start to The golden path. the difference in this one and Oreo low is not that much but i feelt it to be a nice one... and a hard one. both theses climbs are fantastic and for me really hardish...
lördag 24 oktober 2015
fredag 23 oktober 2015
Fa of an project at Fagerdalen today. This one i have worked a bit on and of, tried 2 days ago and feel close on the puzzel. It´s been climbed before but the crucial hold that you bump for broke leaving only a weird pinch. Hard to hit and hard to hold... and you stay on it for a while making fot placement and an awkward dyno... grading proposal is 8A+... lets se what repeters think.