torsdag 12 mars 2015

Tjursbo !





A new Area...
Today i was reasonably fresh and set out to Tjursbo. Started the day with an good fa called Axe 7B, sloperstyle problem on quality stone. The big cliff have an amazing project that i have tried. today i found the solution for the first crux and made the tricky match of the undercling sloper. The climbing is super steep and you need to get high up in position on many of the moves... this one is brutal for the body :) and it finish with an al out dyno :):):)

onsdag 11 mars 2015

Clinics and friends on visit !





The weekend have passed and we had the pleasure of hosting a national competition. On Sunday we had clinics with Erik Massih and Said behaj. Inspiring to here the storys from these guys and i recommend that if you haven't had the chance to here them, take the next one... The afternoon was on for some bouldering. The boys showed good form and Said repeated Dillerium and Erik did get September heat in the bag. I did not climb at all since i was trash ( to much Work )... On the other hand who needs this with these guys on the crew. Now i am starting to get my pieces together and the spring have arrived... on for some projecting :)

söndag 1 mars 2015

Project !






Old close to home project. Sorted out the moves and have had a day of trying on this one. The problem have the same start as a 7C/C+ but enters a straight line of small holds and tops on the high part of the boulder. High point of the day was that i managed to get the fot up and starting to move in position. After this it enters a high top out on crimps and slopers. 12 moves of technical climbing and with some air beneath ;)... Happy !!!!

torsdag 26 februari 2015

Done !


Did a new variation of illusion at Mommehål today. The problem climbs the same as Illusion but tops Right. This will get the name Illusion right and i think the grade are around 8A. 

fredag 20 februari 2015

Spring !


Today the projekt were wet so i decided to clean an old line an make a repetition of this. The problem is one of the better easy problems in the area but seldom get any repetitions. Probably the hight scare people of, but the landing is nice and its not even close to wheelchair zone on this one... 

torsdag 12 februari 2015

Snow report !


Mommehål today manage to send the projekt sans top out. The top of the block had to much snow. There will have to be one more day on this one to get it done... ;)