Jerry o ben`s problem 8A Vo stenarna

This problem get little attention, climbed way back in 2000 by the legend Jerry Moffat and repeted by Ben Moon. The problem broke a bit when i was working it and are a bit harder and with a bit change in the beta. The problem maybe more 8A today and i consider it an area classic and a must do for hardcore climbers that visit Västervik. The gem is sharp so bring your best skin ;)

Scorecard blocket Vo stenarna !

A not dry day trying to solve moves on a lower start to this problem. Scorecard was done 10-12 years back and there has always been possible to start a bit lower on it. Today it was not dry enough to make it to the top...

Old projekts at Vo !

Last week i had the luck to get some dry weather together with time of from work. Spending the day at Vo stenarna and trying to solv the moves on an unclimbed line close to Dillerium. The climb is a a seven mover on compact red Granit and I'm really confused why this one haven't been tried :)

New problem at Vo today !

Today i did an Fa at Vo stenarna ! Pink trail 7C. The sektor will be up on 27crags as soon as i can login, this is an old part of the area and have some really nice problems.

Paranoia 8A/8A+

More than 10 years ago i climbed this problem and today i did it one more time. The line is an variation to Dilerum Vo stenarna and in my opinion much better than the main line of the boulder. This problem dries fast and are close to town. Its been raining like crazy for a month now so i was happy to get out and squeeze some real stone :)

Golden path 8A+ FA !

Crisp autumn morning gave birth to Golden path 8A+, a problem that are not so classic for the area of Västervik. The start have some cool muscular movement and its not until the top of the boulder the hard begins. Coming from the bottom the slopers in the top are not good and the movement are weird. Happy with this one. grade wise i would say much harder than delirium 8A. I will go with 8A+ and se what repeters think. The sit start is a game of its own with four more hard moves to the boulder, hoping to get more days like this... 

Oreo 8A FA at vargklippan !

Oreo 8A Sds

 

Today i had a nice day at Vargklippan, My intetions where to try Golden path Sds projekt and i did. The line climbs from a sittstart and enters a bulge of slopers. Two of the moves are hard and stabby. despite having some good tries the move in the middle remain undone. Speculating on a grade on this would be like 8B/+ and it feels like the hardest i have in the region. Afterwards i tried another good line on the bulge and Oreo 8A Sds was born. Västervik now have one more high quality problem to the list of to does ;) 

Movie from Jihad !

jihad 2 from stefan rasmussen on Vimeo.

Jihad 8A/B FA

Today i managed the first ascent of Jihad 8A/B, have had battle with boulder for 3 days before it went down. This boulder problem is located in one of Västerviks oldest areas VO,stenarna. Its really joyful to find this beauty and finally get it done. In my opinion this problem is one of the best in al of Västervik and a worthy contender for the hardest in the region. Regarding grade i put an 8A/B on it, think this is the way to go... it will be interesting to se what repeters think. When some people manage to send we will se if i am right ;)

Video from Fa of Jeriko

Jeriko Vo Västervik from stefan rasmussen on Vimeo.

A new problem put up yesterday. This one is on the same block as Jihad projekt and are located in the area of VO,stenarna. The problems are on 27crags.com. Regarding grade i would say 7B/C ;) 

Had some burns on the projekt and made an hi point and that feels really good....

Video still from Jeriko

Jerusalem boulder at VO !

 Jihad 8A/B Projekt

Today i decided to have a look at some old stuff. The area is a part of VO stenarna, and are located 100 meter from Smultronstället. confused ? yes i am. The blocks out here are really close and i have suggested that Tomas changes the name of some of hes stuff out here since almost al of the areas are a part of VO stenarna. The new boulder is big and have a lot of cool lines and one really hard projekt. The blocks out here where climbed on by me and Johan Edman some 20 years back in time. 

The big surprise was that the problems here are so classy. The quality and the location is beautiful and its close to town. Had some good burns on the projekt and manage to do the crux move one time, decided on the projekt name JIHAD and named the sektor JERUSALEM and it will be a part of VO Stenarna ;)

Visit Västervik !

https://27crags.com/crags/smultronstallet
https://27crags.com/crags/rummablocken
https://27crags.com/crags/tallsjo
https://27crags.com/crags/kashmirsborg

This is links to some of the new areas in Västervik. You have been in the area there are more than one thing that would draw your attention here again ! And for u who climb 7C really easy its time to make a change and do some of the doable projekts, there are many that would draw your attention ;)

Movie !

Graveyard block from stefan rasmussen on Vimeo.

5 new problems at the Graveyard boulder

 Lefthand 7B

 Lefthand 7B

War bunnie 7A

Today i hiked 100 meter further in the forest to a block i decide to name Graveyard block. The area is really close to Västerviks biggest graveyard so i kind of think it fit in. I made 5 new problems. It goes left is the hardest, around 7B. The quality is amazing and the blocks rests in a forest, quiet and really full of colors this time a year. Had made plans to go and try Golden path projekt at Händelöp, this will be another day... 

Smultronstället Or Gamla vo !

 Prognos 7C+

Sputnik 7B

5 new problems today, Smultronstället an area really close to VO. Tomas Bovinder have made some problems in the area and today i did 5 more. The area have potential and the nice thing is that not all are super hard. The potential for easy and moderate stuff are huge ;)

Block 1 Rumma 2 new problems

 Purge

First ascent of two new problems today at Rumma Block 1, the boulder have eight problems and one projekt. The new problems are up on 27crags.com and one is 6A and one 7A ;)

At war with reality Fa Rumma blocken

 At war with reality 8A/B

Baby power 7A

Rumma is an area south of Västervik 15 min from home. Found a block here almost 10 years ago. the boulder have 8 lines and today i did 3 problems. Baby power 7A, Lexar 6A and an old project that i have tried some in the past. Finally i did the problem which i thought was impossible. The problem did get the name At war with reality and is around 8A/B, or harder then any 8A i have done. This time i tried hard and surprise my self by doing the problem ;)

Born a lion 8A Mommehål !

Born a lion 8A

Today i reclaimed the Fa of an old boulder problem at Mommehål. I climbed it from stand start and the middle part of it is hardish. I am lucky to have so many great areas close to home. Sanna came home yesterday and with a new girl in the house time is limited. We are feeling great and are starting to get to know the new member in our little family Lilja :)

Trying the link of Born a lion and kraft direkt, hardish :)

Tallsjö !

 Two new boulders at Tallsjö this evening, or one with two variations. Viojgr 7A och Jimmie 8A båda finns på 27crags under Tallsjö

German sektor Marstrand !

Projekt !

I will call this... The area still delivers, one of the better projekts i have seen. The sektor soon up on 27crags.com

More Tallsjö !

Hell is lower

Years back i climbed Hell of a lover 7C+ at tallsjö, the problem has one of this weird starts where it starts a bit elevated from a stone. I always though this is a bit of shit and had the vision to climb the line from a pure sitt start. This weekend i worked out the first move and it goes :) also it changes the way u climb the mid part of the problem. So from being a no star problem this will be a five star with real technical movement and a pure start. The grade will also elevate a bit maybe 8A/+. The wether during the weekend where varm and the problem are in the sun so real attempts will have to wait. A new projekt is born trough the ashes of an old problem...  And this one is god ;)

One hour visit !

Homers refrigerator an classic example where i would give the line 7B for the climbing and 8A for the landing. The climbing felt like Heat classic 7B at fruberget Västervik and the landing is like, don't go here without 2 spotters and a lot of foam unless u are interested in killing your self... 

Movie !

Tallsjö 3 5 star from stefan rasmussen on Vimeo.

Love boat captain FA Tallsjö

Today i climbed one new hard problem at Tallsjö. I have tried this one on and of but it took until today to manage the first move, a long jump of real nasty crimps. The problem is an established stand start, and is kinda high. Powerful beautiful and a five star line in my opinion... Happy... Progression is some times so obvious and training pays of :)

Tallsjö and 2 new boulders today !

 Q view

Today i put up two new problems on a new block at Tallsjö. The quality of the stone is amazing. Both problems start at the same point and one goes straight up and one take of right. 4 new boulders this week is good, Tallsjö has a lot of undone problems and with Fagerdalen 5 minutes away this will be the biggest area in Västervik. The new problems are at block T10 on 27crags :)

Rådsklippan and a new problem at Kashmirsborg !

 Sofia on Dansa med myggor 7a

 Tills döden skiljer oss åt 8a+

 Tills döden ... 8a+

Boloman 7A

Sunday i was a little at Rådklippan, no climbing when the body felt a bit tired after Saturday's activities. Scrapped mostly around the forest and took pictures. Erik Masshi and family in place climbed at rådklippans big wall. Was really excited to come here and try a little on the tours. The steep tours on the right side of the wall has very few repetitions and is really good, i have climbed them some 15 years back and it would be nice to get on them again. 

Later in the evening it was a trip to Kasmirsborg, Jens Eklund and Michael Upponen joined and i put up a new problem Boloman 7A, the problem is really good or as good that i couldn't resist climbing on it ;)

Rain 8A Fa Kashmirsborg

 Rain 8A

 Kashmir 7C

Jord Sds Projekt (Hard)

Yesterday evening was spent in Kasmirsborg. Got to make the first ascent of Rain 8A and worked some on the Sds to Jord 7C +, Sit Sds on this one will be really hard if not
 anyone rape problem by starting from a pad up ;)...  

Waiting for weather !

Still too hot, try to get out and run in some good old stuff. Hörtingerum has a number of really good problems and today I went to a new one. The new problem was named Plus24 and holds around 7B. Compression and 10 movement on a fairly steep wall. Film will come, after I cut some other small projects ...