Crisp autumn morning gave birth to Golden path 8A+, a problem that are not so classic for the area of Västervik. The start have some cool muscular movement and its not until the top of the boulder the hard begins. Coming from the bottom the slopers in the top are not good and the movement are weird. Happy with this one. grade wise i would say much harder than delirium 8A. I will go with 8A+ and se what repeters think. The sit start is a game of its own with four more hard moves to the boulder, hoping to get more days like this...
torsdag 30 oktober 2014
måndag 27 oktober 2014
Oreo 8A FA at vargklippan !
Oreo 8A Sds
Today i had a nice day at Vargklippan, My intetions where to try Golden path Sds projekt and i did. The line climbs from a sittstart and enters a bulge of slopers. Two of the moves are hard and stabby. despite having some good tries the move in the middle remain undone. Speculating on a grade on this would be like 8B/+ and it feels like the hardest i have in the region. Afterwards i tried another good line on the bulge and Oreo 8A Sds was born. Västervik now have one more high quality problem to the list of to does ;)
lördag 18 oktober 2014
Jihad 8A/B FA
Today i managed the first ascent of Jihad 8A/B, have had battle with boulder for 3 days before it went down. This boulder problem is located in one of Västerviks oldest areas VO,stenarna. Its really joyful to find this beauty and finally get it done. In my opinion this problem is one of the best in al of Västervik and a worthy contender for the hardest in the region. Regarding grade i put an 8A/B on it, think this is the way to go... it will be interesting to se what repeters think. When some people manage to send we will se if i am right ;)
lördag 11 oktober 2014
Video from Fa of Jeriko
Jeriko Vo Västervik from stefan rasmussen on Vimeo.
A new problem put up yesterday. This one is on the same block as Jihad projekt and are located in the area of VO,stenarna. The problems are on 27crags.com. Regarding grade i would say 7B/C ;)
onsdag 8 oktober 2014
Jerusalem boulder at VO !
Jihad 8A/B Projekt
Today i decided to have a look at some old stuff. The area is a part of VO stenarna, and are located 100 meter from Smultronstället. confused ? yes i am. The blocks out here are really close and i have suggested that Tomas changes the name of some of hes stuff out here since almost al of the areas are a part of VO stenarna. The new boulder is big and have a lot of cool lines and one really hard projekt. The blocks out here where climbed on by me and Johan Edman some 20 years back in time.
The big surprise was that the problems here are so classy. The quality and the location is beautiful and its close to town. Had some good burns on the projekt and manage to do the crux move one time, decided on the projekt name JIHAD and named the sektor JERUSALEM and it will be a part of VO Stenarna ;)
tisdag 7 oktober 2014
Visit Västervik !
https://27crags.com/crags/smultronstallet
https://27crags.com/crags/rummablocken
https://27crags.com/crags/tallsjo
https://27crags.com/crags/kashmirsborg
This is links to some of the new areas in Västervik. You have been in the area there are more than one thing that would draw your attention here again ! And for u who climb 7C really easy its time to make a change and do some of the doable projekts, there are many that would draw your attention ;)
https://27crags.com/crags/rummablocken
https://27crags.com/crags/tallsjo
https://27crags.com/crags/kashmirsborg
This is links to some of the new areas in Västervik. You have been in the area there are more than one thing that would draw your attention here again ! And for u who climb 7C really easy its time to make a change and do some of the doable projekts, there are many that would draw your attention ;)
måndag 6 oktober 2014
5 new problems at the Graveyard boulder
Lefthand 7B
Lefthand 7B
War bunnie 7A
Today i hiked 100 meter further in the forest to a block i decide to name Graveyard block. The area is really close to Västerviks biggest graveyard so i kind of think it fit in. I made 5 new problems. It goes left is the hardest, around 7B. The quality is amazing and the blocks rests in a forest, quiet and really full of colors this time a year. Had made plans to go and try Golden path projekt at Händelöp, this will be another day...
söndag 5 oktober 2014
Smultronstället Or Gamla vo !
Prognos 7C+
Sputnik 7B
5 new problems today, Smultronstället an area really close to VO. Tomas Bovinder have made some problems in the area and today i did 5 more. The area have potential and the nice thing is that not all are super hard. The potential for easy and moderate stuff are huge ;)
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