tisdag 30 september 2014

Block 1 Rumma 2 new problems


First ascent of two new problems today at Rumma Block 1, the boulder have eight problems and one projekt. The new problems are up on 27crags.com and one is 6A and one 7A ;)

torsdag 25 september 2014

At war with reality Fa Rumma blocken

 At war with reality 8A/B
Baby power 7A

Rumma is an area south of Västervik 15 min from home. Found a block here almost 10 years ago. the boulder have 8 lines and today i did 3 problems. Baby power 7A, Lexar 6A and an old project that i have tried some in the past. Finally i did the problem which i thought was impossible. The problem did get the name At war with reality and is around 8A/B, or harder then any 8A i have done. This time i tried hard and surprise my self by doing the problem ;)

lördag 20 september 2014

Born a lion 8A Mommehål !

Born a lion 8A

Today i reclaimed the Fa of an old boulder problem at Mommehål. I climbed it from stand start and the middle part of it is hardish. I am lucky to have so many great areas close to home. Sanna came home yesterday and with a new girl in the house time is limited. We are feeling great and are starting to get to know the new member in our little family Lilja :)

Trying the link of Born a lion and kraft direkt, hardish :)

tisdag 16 september 2014

Tallsjö !

 Two new boulders at Tallsjö this evening, or one with two variations. Viojgr 7A och Jimmie 8A båda finns på 27crags under Tallsjö

onsdag 10 september 2014

German sektor Marstrand !

Projekt !

I will call this... The area still delivers, one of the better projekts i have seen. The sektor soon up on 27crags.com

måndag 8 september 2014

More Tallsjö !

Hell is lower

Years back i climbed Hell of a lover 7C+ at tallsjö, the problem has one of this weird starts where it starts a bit elevated from a stone. I always though this is a bit of shit and had the vision to climb the line from a pure sitt start. This weekend i worked out the first move and it goes :) also it changes the way u climb the mid part of the problem. So from being a no star problem this will be a five star with real technical movement and a pure start. The grade will also elevate a bit maybe 8A/+. The wether during the weekend where varm and the problem are in the sun so real attempts will have to wait. A new projekt is born trough the ashes of an old problem...  And this one is god ;)

tisdag 2 september 2014

One hour visit !

Homers refrigerator an classic example where i would give the line 7B for the climbing and 8A for the landing. The climbing felt like Heat classic 7B at fruberget Västervik and the landing is like, don't go here without 2 spotters and a lot of foam unless u are interested in killing your self...