söndag 22 mars 2015

New problem today !

Today was freezing cold and i felt stiff since the day before. One Fa and some indoor training at Örebrobouldergym was hard for my aged body. On my last try of the day i ripped my finger open with a really nasty flapper... This was the fire for a last last go on it. Tape and anger was the thing needed for the send of this boulder... Grade 7C?... it felt tricky and have a lot of weird movement. Its hard to give a number feeling like i did today ;) The name of the boulder is Interstellar. This is the name of the movie we intend to finish tonight if we don't fall a sleep again... Having small kids makes the days go by fast and the evenings are short...

lördag 21 mars 2015

Doubleeffect Fa Köping !

Home away from home. Made the Fa of a new beauty today, snow and rain on friday but today we woke up to shinny sun and good temps. This is one really cool problem and i think its around 8A top 5 of problems i have climbed. The area have more to offer but the spring need to return...

torsdag 19 mars 2015

One more of The birdman !

Or one more day on it ! feels hard... close but no cigar...

tisdag 17 mars 2015

Birdman (projekt)

Today i had a look at a new boulder, This one is done from a standing start with i flashed. The wall have two possible sitt starts and the right one being the most interesting. This way you get the positive hold on the ramp with wrong hand and the top gets more spice like this. This is one of the better problems i have had the pleasure to climb. Lucky me,it will be more climbing on it since i didn't do it today :)

torsdag 12 mars 2015

Tjursbo !

A new Area...
Today i was reasonably fresh and set out to Tjursbo. Started the day with an good fa called Axe 7B, sloperstyle problem on quality stone. The big cliff have an amazing project that i have tried. today i found the solution for the first crux and made the tricky match of the undercling sloper. The climbing is super steep and you need to get high up in position on many of the moves... this one is brutal for the body :) and it finish with an al out dyno :):):)

onsdag 11 mars 2015

Clinics and friends on visit !

The weekend have passed and we had the pleasure of hosting a national competition. On Sunday we had clinics with Erik Massih and Said behaj. Inspiring to here the storys from these guys and i recommend that if you haven't had the chance to here them, take the next one... The afternoon was on for some bouldering. The boys showed good form and Said repeated Dillerium and Erik did get September heat in the bag. I did not climb at all since i was trash ( to much Work )... On the other hand who needs this with these guys on the crew. Now i am starting to get my pieces together and the spring have arrived... on for some projecting :)

söndag 1 mars 2015

Project !

Old close to home project. Sorted out the moves and have had a day of trying on this one. The problem have the same start as a 7C/C+ but enters a straight line of small holds and tops on the high part of the boulder. High point of the day was that i managed to get the fot up and starting to move in position. After this it enters a high top out on crimps and slopers. 12 moves of technical climbing and with some air beneath ;)... Happy !!!!