onsdag 30 mars 2016

Secrets !

Today skin had grown back a bit so i went out trying an old project. A new problem was born, high quality hard and dynamic. The problem is on granit with smoothness of sandstone, steep and powerful, a true gem for the next generation. This small area are host of two other old quality hardlines and an project. I decided on the name Shapeshifter 8A anyone who is keen on trying can contact me. In the future i will stay away from www.8A.nu and 27crags.com places like this only create shit for me. Friends know where to find me....

söndag 27 mars 2016

Master and commander !

A short session in the eve and a new problem was born. Master and commander 7C at Rövargrottorna Bågvik. A short walk from the car and a nice forest location, have had my eyes on this for some time and today i scrubbed the wall. 

torsdag 24 mars 2016

Done !

Arcoxia Fa today, the problem is on a Boulder Close to Rödaväggen. Grade is 8A/B, more specified when some more people have tried it...a serie of low precent compression moves in steep terrain 10 moves long.  The weather have been quite good and i meet with some Germans and Finnisch guys that had been around a bit. The Boulders are totally fine even if it have rained in the morning. Working with a longer Movie Project and at the moment it looks to bee 3 20 minutes, with new Boulders from the area. On for the next one ;)  

torsdag 17 mars 2016


Close times two on this project. Arcoxia at Kluvnastenen Vo, a nice hard problem. I have climbed the lower part and falling dabing on the rock trough move, this is not the hardest move but the lower part takes so much power away and the move is quite insecure. This problem will be one of the harder in the region ones it is done...

tisdag 15 mars 2016

One more day in the forest !

Repeated Fade to black a problem Lorentz put up during the weekend.  He gave the problem 7C+ It,s hard and i had an battle not using the same metod as the guys from down south. T-rex compression is the most hateful climbing style for me... I came up with the double Campus solution to the problem and the one suited me far better. Had a lot of struggle on it and to give the problem anything else than 8A would be stupid... ;) This one is freaking good so it will probably get some attention in the future.

söndag 13 mars 2016

weekend ticks !

This weekend Tomas Blaabjerg and Lorentz Ulmer visited and climbed in Västervik. Lorentz did the Fa of the prow project (Fade to black) and it as repeated by Tomas. I figured out my beta and will be back for sure, it´s so cool since no one uses the same method. Lorentz did some other nice Fa´s and got the first repeat of At war with reality at Rumma. On saturday i put up 2 new problems in Gamleby  5 new problems this weekend :) all problems are on 27crags.com