lördag 31 oktober 2015

New stuff at Marstrand !

Good day trying and putting up new stuff at the Big roof Marstrand. This place hold a variety of walls with different angels and structures. Put up Safe 7B  and Fredrik Dahl and Vlad Vorobyev made quickies on this one. Anders put up a new 5A boulder to the left of this one. All of us had burns on the roof center line... this will be a nice one... fun day in the forest showing old and new friends some newish Västervik stuff... looking forward for more playing days in the woods with Pavel Vlad and Natalia with kids :) 

torsdag 29 oktober 2015

Birdman 8A/+ FA

One of the better in my 25 years of climbing, Birdman 8A/B at Marstrand. It is one of those heartbreakers and for me it was a real battle. Had big trouble sticking the second move on this one, i even gave up on it a couple of times.  Regarding grade i sincerely don't know and to trow down number on it only feels lame since this battle was about something else... hopefully some one else can be more precise on that ;)...  Later in the afternoon i find a really nice roof climb and some new walls so the weekend is saved.

onsdag 28 oktober 2015

One fot in the grave 7C+ Vo-stenarna

Graveyard blocken at Vo are some boulders with amazing quality. Today i did the first ascent of a project. One fot in the grave 7C+ is a superb sloper problem, happy with this one :)

tisdag 27 oktober 2015

Golden path low 8A+

Mynta and i had an amazing autumn day and headed to Händelöp. Warming up in the sea side looking for dolphins. The pack of dolphins had been seen here the day before so there where hope in geting a glimse. This didn't happen but the location was good for warming up... had one more to do at Vargklippan, Doom Dridgewoods low start to The golden path. the difference in this one and Oreo low is not that much but i feelt it to be a nice one... and a hard one. both theses climbs are fantastic and for me really hardish... 

lördag 24 oktober 2015

Animal video!

animal in my head from stefan rasmussen on Vimeo.

Film from the send of Animal in my head, the movie is really bad since my camera is broken and my insurance company Folksam have a work tempo like a turtle...

fredag 23 oktober 2015

Animal in my head 8A/+ FA

Fa of an project at Fagerdalen today. This one i have worked a bit on and of, tried 2 days ago and feel close on the puzzel. It´s been climbed before but the crucial hold that you bump for broke leaving only a weird pinch. Hard to hit and hard to hold... and you stay on it for a while making fot placement  and an awkward dyno... grading proposal is 8A+... lets se what repeters think.

lördag 17 oktober 2015

Oreo Low 8A/+ FA Vargklippan Händelöp

Did the project at Vargklippan today Oreo Low 8A/+ Euphoric and happy as this is a good one...To me it did not give up easy there are some moves on it that are weird and dynamik. Or more precise hard to target...:) movie coming up later this week ;)

torsdag 15 oktober 2015

Close but no cigar !

Today i had some time to try Oreo Low at vargklippan. Close but bad skin limited the tries to a few. Back this weekend to finish this cool problem. And a little movie from a warmup try on Oreo OG...

tisdag 13 oktober 2015

Wolverine Vargklippan !

Wolverine 7C

Oreo 8A

wolverin from stefan rasmussen on Vimeo.

Nice evening session and repeated Wolverine 7C This problem has an awkward start, Low compact and weird. Mid part have an interesting part going in to a corner and then easy climbing to the top. I use a mix of Tomas the first man up the problem beta and my beta for Golden path low.  By far Oreo is the best problem in the sector and i had to have a go on this one. Trashed skin from screwing plastic this morning made for a quick session...

söndag 11 oktober 2015

SM 2015

Swedish champions 2015 Kajsa Rosén and Hannes Puman. I had the pleasure to set for this well runed competition. Hanes and Kajsa climbed the best and was in my opinon in a league of there own. Bright future for Swedish competition climbing... Grattis ;) 

lördag 3 oktober 2015

torsdag 1 oktober 2015

Gladhammar !

Old project revisited today. Haven't been back in some years since i had major problem with one of the moves on it. Today i managed to get that move done... So now it´s a real project.