söndag 28 augusti 2016

Repet and a stunning FA By Lorentz Ulmer

Today Lorentz did an climb Birdman at Marstrand. I personally think this is one of the most estetik looking problems in Västervik and an contender for the best :) Later the Dyno project went down at Marstrand. This one is a super nice looking problem and it climbs really well... Have to wait for a name... ;)

fredag 26 augusti 2016

Warmisch weather and a lot of stuff to do !

The week have been packed with climbing and some new stuff where done, The heat is on and the really hard stuff have to wait. Did have an ok session on the Ice age project together with Lorentz and i think we have wired al moves... Need weather NOW...

tisdag 23 augusti 2016

Hidden gems !

Yesterday i showed Lorentz a problem i put up last autumn. The problem is Je t`aime paris and is one of those high class problems and it´s actually really close to another well visited area north of Västervik. At the moment it´s rather fun just to sample done problem and to get some thoughts and feelings before the produktion of the new guide book of the area... This one will be huge...

onsdag 17 augusti 2016

Slowly creating a new big area !

Today another great problem when down ! Goodrich at the car boulder Vargblocken is super on good quality rock close to a road. The sector holds a lot of blocks and we are just scraping the surface of whats there. One of the nice things is that this sector will have some really nice moderats :) Loretz is making the most of his time here putting in hours of searching and brushing. The new guidebook is taking shape and this far the layout and sketches/photos look dope...

lördag 13 augusti 2016

new blocks and Fa`s at Vargblocken

Yesterday Lorentz Ulmer made Two new problems on a wall close to Dragon roof at Vargblocken. Actually Lorentz did find two new quality spots in the area. The wall with the new problems has  amazing quality on the stone and board style climbing on incuts and slopey crimpers or slimpers. today i managed repetitions and on my behalf I'm not agreeing with Lorentz (Soft) comment in hes scorecard ;) Problem names are on 27crags.com...  

torsdag 11 augusti 2016

Projecting !

Brushing and finding new stuff every day at the moment. Västervik south is growing bigger and bigger. The sector where King of the rodeo is located did get two new amazing problems yesterday...

tisdag 9 augusti 2016

Kings of the rodeo Sds Vargblocken

Today prime conditions did get us up King of the rodeo Sds. Both Lorentz and had been close on our last visit and today we managed an team send. Superb and rather unusual climbing on this one... Movie to come... Västervik south is growing fast and in this sector we have 4 more undone projects :)

onsdag 3 augusti 2016

Västervik south and finally manageable conditions

Vargblocken and some progress in climbing the low start to King of the rodeo. Lorentz did King of the rodeo (Right) witch is an additional top out to King of the rodeo. Still conditions are a tad varm but it,s totally possible to climb at the moment :)...